These past 3 weeks have been a very exciting time in Viet Nam. The hustle and bustle in the city was steadily increasing as people prepared for the Tet Holiday, the Lunar New Year. This year New Year fell on February 2. There was heightened excitement right up to that date, after which the entire country shut down for about 5 days. There were a number of different cultural happenings that I got to take a part of, and I would like to share some of my observations with you. Key elements including long lines at superstores, the purchasing of trees, the appearance of massive amounts of food, and very tired moms made it all too easy for me to compare the festivities a teensy bit to Christmas. Of course Tet is completely different from Christmas, it was just interesting to see the similarities! For the purposes of clarity in describing this time, I will subdivide this email into three parts: Lead Up, New Year, and Shut Down.
Lead Up:
My entire time in Viet Nam so far has been a part of the lead up to Tet. The stores were packed with people buying cookies, candies, and decorations. The streets were all lit up with special Tet lights and there was general excitement everywhere. There was one thing though that really confused me- everywhere I looked there were men driving motorbikes with trees strapped on the back of them. They looked like tiny orange trees. I chalked this up to just some random thing that I didn’t know about, until my friend Ngoc solved the mystery. She took me down by the river, where there were fields and fields of these trees. Apparently, every Vietnamese household aims to purchase one and have it in their home for Tet. There are all different shapes and sizes, some more traditional and some more unique. There were families all over the place picking out their trees. There were also cherry trees that people could take home if they could afford it. Ngoc explained that different regions of Viet Nam use different trees, and that these trees were Tet trees in the North. Once you take it home, most people placed it in the entry and took good care of it. Some even decorated it with the trademark red and gold colours for extra festivity.
Other preparations for Tet included cleaning and ridding your home of old, unnecessary things. My host mom Ha kept making jokes about how it was a holiday for me, but not a holiday for her because she had to get up early every morning to clean her home. This was a common problem, as most of my coworkers were complaining about how hard Tet is because of all the extra work they have to do. I think some of them were even glad when it was over, as they were looking forward to less pressure filled days.
Work also had a different atmosphere leading up to Tet. We had a mid afternoon break almost every day for cake, or fruit, or rice wine, or all three as everyone was bringing in huge amounts of food. The only explanation I would get was that it was Tet so we should celebrate! I definitely did not complain, as most of the food was delicious.
New Year
The actual night of New Year’s was the 2nd of February. I was lucky enough to be in downtown Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) to see fireworks at midnight. It was a really fun evening, and I think that anyone who was left in town came to see them. The whole street was completely packed with people. I am a bad guesstimator, but I think it was safe to say that the numbers had to be in the several hundred thousands at the lowest. My friends and I were sitting at a café by the riverside starting at about 10pm, and there was a constant stream of people passing us until the fireworks began. By midnight you absolutely could not move as there were so many people in the streets.
There are many other things that people do specifically for the New Year. One of them is to give money. This is primarily for any kids that you know. One of my coworkers Hanh said that she walks around at Tet time with at least 50 envelopes with small change on the inside in case she runs into any children that she might know. The Tet envelopes are narrow and long and are all a bright red colour.
The main activity for Tet is visiting family and friends, or having them visit you. The most important visitor is the first visitor to enter your home in the New Year. The best candidates for the first visitor are people who have lived happy lives, had many children, made a lot of money, or encountered a lot of success in their lives. My family actually pre-decided who would be their first visitor, as they wanted to ensure quality. The first visitor is an indicator of what your year to come will be like. My office also preplanned who would be the first to enter the office in the New Year, which was interesting to see. This tradition has a flip side as well. You are considered to be very unlucky if you have experienced a death in your family in the past year. My family had and as a result, they could not go visit anyone on the first day. Instead, people had to come to them.
Shut Down
After the 2nd of February, all the major urban centers were almost completely shut down. Universities and schools were closed, government employees didn’t have to work, most everyone else didn’t have to work, most shops had closed their doors, and people left the urban areas en masse, all headed to the villages where their families came from. It was a huge difference from regular city life. Whereas normally crossing the street can be hazardous to your existence, I saw people playing badminton on major thoroughfares. Whereas normally you can’t seem to walk 10 feet without seeing a street vendor, it was difficult to find food. Whereas normally there are shops after shops after shops on every single street, there was nothing but closed iron doors along the sidewalks. It was very bizarre. Everyone was too busy visiting their friends and family to spend time the way they normally do. I really admired this because although that is what our cities seem like on Christmas Day (although I wouldn’t really know because I don’t leave my house on Christmas) on Boxing Day we just open everything back up again. Not for Tet. Everything was abandoned until at least the 7th, and even by the 9th most stores in Hanoi had not reopened.
Anyways, that is my very long description of what I saw at Tet. There were many other things to see and do and experience, but that would take a lot more space that what I used in this post.
I wish you all the best of luck in the New Year! Perhaps now is a good time to make a resolution….or recommit to a resolution.
Chuc Mung Nam Moi!
(Happy New Year)